Unveiling the Culinary Journey of Collard Greens: From Morocco to the American South
For many generations, collard greens have been a staple in both African and African-diaspora cuisines, celebrated for their rich flavor and nutritional benefits. This leafy green is a quintessential component of African American, Southern, and soul food traditions in the United States. Its importance isn’t limited to the U.S., as collards also hold a prominent place in various regions across Africa. In Kenya, for example, they are known as “sukuma wiki” and are one of the most frequently consumed vegetables.
Traditionally, scholars attributed the arrival of collards in the Americas to early European settlers during the 16th century. This narrative suggested that Spanish, Portuguese, and English traders introduced the vegetable, which was subsequently embraced by enslaved Africans. However, recent findings have opened up new avenues of thought.
Our research, as presented in USAZINE, has revealed collards growing in the lush gardens of southern Moroccan oases, sparking curiosity about the historical journey these greens took before arriving in the American South. It appears that collards may have reached Morocco via early Muslim traders, suggesting a potential ancient linkage that predates their journey to North America by hundreds of years.
The intricate tapestry of culinary practices reveals fascinating similarities between Moroccan and Southern U.S. recipes, further reinforcing the idea that Moroccan agricultural practices played a pivotal role in shaping the meals of African diasporas. Collard greens belong to the species Brassica oleracea, which includes diverse vegetables like broccoli and cabbage. This genetic diversity has made tracing their origins complex, yet it seems likely that they were domesticated in the Mediterranean region.
As ethnobiologists with over two decades of research in Moroccan food traditions, we discovered collards thriving in the gardens of African diaspora communities descended from enslaved individuals. Our findings highlighted the ancient Arabic term “kornub” as a link to how collards are referred to of their historic roots.
Additionally, we stumbled upon a remarkable 10th-century Baghdad cookbook containing a recipe strikingly similar to Moroccan collards. This historical insight denotes a rich culinary heritage that likely influenced the evolution of collard greens in America.
Furthermore, references in historical documents, including reports from explorers in Algeria and discussions of collards in Oman, provide a broader context for their journey through various cultures and cuisines. Our research posits that collard greens might have reached Morocco through Kharijite Muslim traders as early as the eighth century, emphasizing the interconnectedness of trade routes prior to the Atlantic slave trade.
While there is still much to uncover regarding collards’ precise journey to the Americas, our exploration signals a need to reassess existing narratives. Unique culinary practices within African diasporas, particularly in the U.S., bear distinctive similarities to Moroccan dishes, suggesting that collards were not merely adopted but may have traveled an enriching path, connecting gastronomies across continents.
These collaborative histories invite us to reflect on the intricate relationship between food, culture, and migration, revealing how culinary legacies persist through generations. The journey of collard greens illustrates the ent(w)ined legacy of the transatlantic trade and its earlier counterparts, allowing us to appreciate the shared histories that live on through our plates today.
#Foodways #CulinaryHeritage
